Our June walk

Dr Salter's Daydream, a moated manor, two Scandinavian churches, Brunel, an 18th century school, bodysnatchers, dock history, the Mayflower, beach bags, urban woodland, world trade, a burst of opera and a farm: our June walk, in Rotherhithe

This month, we had a guest on our walk, Sandy Adirondack, who lives in Rotherhithe and has done extensive research into its history. 

Heading for the remains of the moated manor house of King Edward III, thought to have been used for falconry, we diverted first to Dr Salter's Daydream, a set of sculptures of Alfred and Ada Salter, their daughter Joyce and their cat. Setting up his practice in 1900, Dr Salter had offered free medical services to those who could not afford to pay and moved into politics to bring about further social change. Ada, similarly keen to improve lives, became the first woman mayor of a London borough. They insisted on living in the place they served and sadly, their daughter died at eight years old in an epidemic of scarlet fever.

Heading for the Norwegian church, the Sjømannskirken, we happened on a confirmation, with a procession of young people in traditional dress – and a tantalising smell of pastries...

...which led us to the first of two pitstops, at a local café with an exhibition, Bags of Life by Penny Dearsley, beach bags and hats, each with a subject, part of a body of work exploring memories.

While we paused, Sandy filled us in on the history of the docks at Rotherhithe, the first, Greenland Dock, dug out in 1696, then the largest dock of its time, and renamed in the mid-1800s for its use by Arctic whalers. Expansion of traffic, including timber from the Baltic and Scandinavia and food from Canada, led to the expansion of the dock, other docks followed and there were pools to float the timber until it was moved on. The decline of the docks started with WWII air raids and then container traffic making the docs unsuitable. They lay derelict until the major redevelopment scheme of the 1980s. 

Next, to the modern Finnish church with its handsome tower behind, along to the Brunel museum, where there were kilts (a wedding was taking place) and the history of the first tunnel under a navigable river, past the Mayflower pub and through St Mary's churchyard, where the captain of the Mayflower is buried, famous also for 'The Bishop's Chair', made from timber salvaged from the Fighting Temeraire. We passed the St Mary Rotherhithe school, a free school founded in 1613, and the watch house next door that guarded against bodysnatchers raiding the churchyard next door for bodies for medical research. 

Onward, then, to Russia Dock Woodland, a moment exploring world trade by way of a metal compass set into the path showing goods, countries and distances, and through to Surrey Docks Farm, at its entrance a procession of bronze animals. Unexpectedly, opera floated out from the café, which turned out to be a customer serving up a virtuoso performance. Spontaneous applause, then in past the forge to say hello to sheep with fringes, curly-tailed pigs, mischievous goats, glamorous chickens, and to admire the hanging tomato baskets with their linings of sheep's wool from shearing. There was even time for some quick sketches – and a second pitstop, at the café, with its river views.

"That was amazing!", said Christine as we headed into Canada Water station. "It was like having a Blue Badge guide!" Indeed it was – a massive East End WI thank you to Sandy for bringing so much knowledge and interest to our Rotherhithe walk.

Fancy joining us on one of our walks? Check our monthly 'coming up' blogposts for details and if you're a member, join our walkers' WhatsApp group.